Aunt Daisy’s Quilt Along

This is the original completed Aunt Daisy quilt, king size, 112″ x 112″.

This quilt was designed from an image in my head of a quilt I saw a few years ago in an antique shop up north. The quilt was made with orange cottons and muslin. I fell in love with the quilt but when I peeked at the price tag, I knew I’d be leaving the quilt behind. I took a quick picture of the quilt and continued on, then a few months later while hiking in the desert in California my phone fell out of my pocket and through the glitches in life that happen, I was unable to download the pictures from the cloud! I sketched out the quilt as I remembered it and later when I decided I’d like to make the quilt I drew it out on graph paper. It may or may not represent the actual antique quilt, but I was happy with the results. My red and white original quilt was made using Lisa Bongean’s, Redwork Gatherings fabric line. I named this pattern after my grandmother’s Aunt Daisy. My Great, Great Aunt Daisy was always so prim and proper, always wore her hair in a long braid wrapped around her head or in a bun, stockings on (even in the summer heat with no air conditioning) and her neatly pressed cotton dress was always covered with a pretty pressed apron. She must be the influence of why I now collect antique aprons! I remember Aunt Daisy as always having an extremely clean and organized home. The divan and chairs were covered with her crocheted doilies on the arm rests and the backs; doilies decorated every tabletop and dresser. Her throw rugs were never askew, but always perfectly aligned to the planks of the wood floors. She was a very gifted crocheter and tatter. Once, after we left my Great, Great Aunt Daisy’s home, I remarked to my mother that Aunt Daisy had such a perfect house. My mother looked at me for a minute and then said, “Nothing in life is perfect except God.” My grandmother was a great seamstress, and my mother was an excellent cook and baker, and did beautiful embroidery, but she also did arts and crafts and flower arrangements. I remember as a child when she’d make an arrangement with silk flowers she reached up and move one flower stem out of place. When I asked why she always did this, she responded, “It is a good reminder that nothing and nobody in life is perfect. When I finished the quilt top, I took a picture. I was so happy with how the quilt top turned out. Then, I quilted the quilt and posted a picture, and it was quickly brought to my attention that there was a mistake in a block; I went back and looked and realized there was not one, but three errors in the quilt; block units turned the wrong way and one block unit made with the reverse colors. My first thought was to rip out the quilting and replace or reposition the blocks to correct my mistakes but my mother’s words about imperfections were bouncing around in my head, so I made a decision to leave the mistakes as a tribute to my mother. As quilters, our points might not be perfect, our blocks may be crooked or turned in the wrong direction but it a gentle reminder that we are quilters because we enjoy the process. We will take this journey together to create a quilt that is unique to our own personalities, and we will share in the joy of creating, bouncing ideas and inspiration and learning from each other, so put your worries aside and know that nothing in life is perfect as perfection is in the eye of the beholder.

If you consider yourself a beginner quilter, don’t worry! I’m going to walk you through this quilt, baby step by baby step! Don’t be afraid to ask me questions through the Facebook Page https://www.facebook.com/groups/238458531647902 or send me a private message and I’ll answer you as quickly as possible. I believe that every quilter can make this quilt.

Now, let the fun begin! My yardage charts should be generous enough to make everything, each of the colorways, main color (MC) and background color (BC), were padded with an extra 1/8 yard to 1/4 yard. If you are making a scrappy quilt you may do like I do and pull extras to ensure you have enough. The original quilt was made from yardage I purchased from a quilt shop. I never dreamed anyone else would be interested in my quilt, so I didn’t keep track of what I used because I overcut squares not paying attention and then made other blocks from my scraps. There are TWO different yardage amounts for each finished size quilt. Why? If you own a Tri-Recs ruler or similar ruler set, there is a yardage chart for this. If you are only using two basic rulers without a Triangle in a Square specialty ruler, I have yardage figured for this and it is a generous estimated amount. I believe for my blue and white quilt along I’ll be making the bulk of my Triangle in a Square block units without the specialty rulers but instead use only straight rulers. I will, however, demonstrate both methods during that lesson.

Here are the rulers you will need but remember, this is only what I’m using for demonstrations, please feel free to use the rulers and methods that you prefer, there is no ‘right’ or ‘wrong’ way to make the blocks as long as you end up with 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ unfinished block units! You don’t need the brands listed; these were just what I had in my drawer!

Rulers needed if you choose to use a Tri-Recs or similar ruler set. A longer ruler for cutting strips the width of the fabric (WOF) and blocks, a Triangle in a Square specialty ruler, and not absolutely required but, I LOVE using a 4 1/2″ square ruler for squaring up my block units but any ruler that is 4 1/2″ or larger will work. Any brand will work, these were just what I had in my drawer!

Rulers you will need if you plan to work only with straight rulers and no specialty rulers. You will need a ruler to cut strips the width of the fabric (WOF) and blocks. And, you don’t have to do use this ruler, but I LOVE using a 4 1/2″ square up ruler; any ruler 4 1/2″ or larger will work. It doesn’t matter what brands you choose or have on hand; just remember you need a ruler for cutting strips and blocks and a ruler you are comfortable using for squaring up blocks.

Now, for the yardage charts. Please be kind, I’ve spent countless hours making sample blocks, figuring out yardage amounts for each of the block units and the entire quilt in each size. I’ve spent two nights barely sleeping as I worried that I might have made a mistake. I went back over my math last night, not once, but twice, working into the midnight hour! Then, this morning I woke up with a thought about one of the block units that didn’t make sense and rushed out into the sewing room to cut and sew two more samples of this block unit to retest and check my math! I’m laughing because when I’m designing quilts and making them for myself and my family, I don’t worry, but sharing information with other quilters, well, let the worrying begin!

Please post pictures of your fabric choices on the Facebook Page!

Aunt Daisy’s Quilt Along

These are the estimated yardage charts.  For each size and each color there are two yardage amounts listed; the first set is the yardage if you plan to use a Tri-Recs ruler set or similar ruler set for a triangle in a square block unit.  The second is if you plan to only use straight rulers.

Size and Yardage Chart.docx

	Dimension of finished quilts	Main Color with Tri-Recs Rulers	Background  Color with Tri-Recs Rulers	Main Color without Tri-Recs Rulers	Background Color without Tri-Recs Rulers
King Size	112” x 112”	8 1/4 yds.	10 ½ yds.	10 yds.	12 ¼ yds.
Queen Size	84” x 112”	6 yds.	7 3/4 yds.	7 1/2 yds.	9 yds.
Double Size	84” x 84”	5 ¼ yds.	6 1/4 yds.	6 yds.	7 yds.
Twin Size	56” x 84”	3 ½ yds.	4 ¼ yds.	4 yds.	4 ¾ yds.
Lap Size	56” x 56”	2  2/3yds.	3 yds.	3 yds.	3.5 yds.
Table Topper or Pillow Front	28” x 28”	1 ¼ yds.	1 ¼ yds.	1 ¼ yds.	1 ¼ yds.

Binding:    

King Size	Queen Size	Double Size	Twin Size	Lap Size	Table Topper
30”	28”	25”	20”	18”	10”

Please post pictures on the Facebook Group https://www.facebook.com/groups/238458531647902 so we can begin to share and inspire each other!

Also, share the Facebook group with your friends and sewing or quilting groups to encourage others to join in on the quilt along!

The first lesson will be posted in February! I’ll give the date and time as soon as I finish editing the lesson!

Size and Yardage Chart.docx

A few quilting tips!

Today I'm working on my Block Unit 8 HST (half square triangles) for the Grandma Minnie Quilt Along.  I'm hearing feedback from the BOM class and online that quilters are worried they're behind, don't be!  I'm behind also and I'm leading this stitch along!  It's summer but no matter what time of the year it may be, life happens, we are busy, and I don't worry about it because eventually it all gets completed.  I'm lucky enough that I have a dedicated sewing area so when I find myself with 20 minutes before I need to leave the house or while cooking (with timers going of course!), I'll sit down and sew for 15 minutes.  It's the small spurts that get the most progress when I don't have time to sit and sew for a day or even for hours.  I try to work on my quilt for at least 15 to 30 minutes a day and some days I have the entire day.  I worked on block units yesterday and this morning while I was sewing, I thought about a few things I'd like to share, and this pertains to any quilt you are making but especially if you are making the half square triangles.  I know many quilters have started using the half square triangle papers you can buy so you lay two cuts of fabric down, put the paper on top and sew on the dashed lines, cut on the solid lines and tear away the paper.  I've used these, and they are nice, but they can also add up in price.  I purchased a CD called Triangulations where I can print out any size I need on regular copy paper, it's cheaper than purchasing the preprinted versions.  I like to use these when making the very small HSTs.  For the larger ones, like in the Aunt Daisy Quilt or the Grandma Minnie Quilt, I like the method for making two at a time.  It's quick, it's easy, but most importantly, it's extremely accurate when you sew larger and trim down to the exact size. I made a video to demonstrate how I make mine but also the video has other tips that I hope some of you find helpful.

Well, if anyone has any tips for getting a video off my phone onto my blog....I need help!  

Aunt Daisy’s Quilt Along Block Unit G for August

This is our final block unit to finish! If you were able to complete last month’s block unit, this month is the same block unit, the Triangle in a Square with one exception, the colors are reversed this month with the MC as the center triangle and the BC as the sides. Next month I’ll show you how to put the blocks together. If you plan to use the Quilt As You Go method to quilt it, you can construct each block but do not sew all of the blocks together. I’m going to sew the units together to make one block, then quilt it and repeat. When I have enough blocks quilted to make one row, then I’ll sew the rows together and show you how to quilt the seam areas, but this is for another month! Enjoy this month’s block unit and now I must hurry and finish up my block units, so I’ll be ready for next month!

block-unit-g7-pdf-triangle-in-a-square-Download

Aunt Daisy Block Unit F – Triangle in a Square

Aunt Daisy’s Quilt Block F – Directions for using regular rulers! There are many, many specialty rulers just for making the Triangle in a Square block unit; I’ve used the rulers from these companies: The Wonder Triangles from Quilt Sense, The Triangle in a Square from Today’s Quilter, and the Tri-Recs Tools by Darlene Zimmerman and Joy Hoffman from EZ Quilting. There is a newer ruler from 180 Studios – Deb Tucker’s ruler she has named the VBlock ruler and I’ve heard rave reviews about this ruler; although I’ve never used this particular brand we have a resident FB group Aunt Daisy member, Paula Nelson from Allen, Oklahoma that is a certified instructor and sells the rulers and would be happy to help you if you would like to use this type of ruler. I’ve also used the Accuquilt cutter to cut this unit and whether it’s my sewing or the die was off I couldn’t tell you, but all of my blocks sewn with the Accuquilt method were 1/4″ too narrow, forcing me to sew 1/8″ seams on those sides when sewing the block units together. If this happens you can sew a 1/8″ seam and then sew again about 1/16″ away on the seam allowance edges to reinforce those edges. I am not including directions for these specialty rulers as they all come with their own directions and most have videos to demonstrate their rulers. The last idea I have for %alternative methods for making this block is to search for free Triangle in a Square paper pieced pattern for a 4″ x 4″ finished unit. My one tip is MAKE SURE YOU PRINT USING THE 100% OR ACTUAL choice on printing to keep the exact dimensions. After you print the pattern, place your ruler over the square to make sure it is a finished 4″ square. My instructions will be using only straight rulers. As always, I encourage you to use the method or technique that works best for you!

There are two methods for using straight rulers. The first is very easy but leaves you with bias edges. Method 1: When I first learned to make the Triangle in a Square unit, I would cut a square the unfinished size I wanted for the large center triangle 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ and for the side triangles I would cut two rectangles 2 1/2″ x 5″. I would fold the center triangle fabric in half and crease the top edge 1/2″ down with my thumb nail, then lay a rectangle and center it as I would for my instructions below with one edge lined up and touching the center crease and extending beyond by at least 1/4″ and the bottom edge touching the corner, sew and press back and repeat with the other side.

After I pressed, I’d trim the excess off of the back. Then I’d place my 4 1/2″ square up ruler over the top and making sure I had 1/4″ at the bottom beyond the center triangle on each side and 1/4″ at the top beyond the tip of the center triangle I’d trim to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″. This is the easiest method but the only problem with this method is if you are not using well starched fabrics or are extremely careful, you may stretch the block as you are working with bias edges. You have to be careful when pressing also to not stretch the sides. This is the easiest method to cut and sew and you can even cut the side triangles longer so you don’t have to worry about running short and it’s easier to trim.

Method 2: I learned to use this method because all of my sides are on the strait of grain with less chance of stretching.

Block Unit F – Triangle in a Square block unit 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished/4″ x 4″ finished.

*Block F has the large center triangle the BC and side triangles MC.

I’m going to demonstrate how to make the block with straight edged rulers.

For every Block TWO F Units you will need the following:

MC for the side triangles:  Cut 2: 4 1/2” x 3 3/8” rectangles. This is important: Place the two rectangles right sides together BEFORE marking and cutting. If you skip putting these together correctly and only cut one rectangle or cut two, both facing up, you will end up with right side triangles only, you need mirror imaged side triangles. On the short edge mark 5/8” from the left at the bottom.

And Mark 5/8” from the right opposite corner. 

Use a ruler and but between the two marks on the angle cut. 

You now have two sets of mirror images triangles. Take one set of mirrored triangles to sew the first block unit.

BC:  Cut 2: 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares. Take one block to sew for the first block unit.

Directions:  Fold the BC square in half and crease on one end about 1/2″ down, I just use my finger to press to mark the center.

Next open up and place the widest diagonal edge at the center crease line with the edge touching the center crease. You need the tip to extend about 1/4″ so when you begin sewing you start on the inside edge 1/4″ in for the perfect seam allowance.

Now, align the bottom edge as shown below, you will see that the bottom edge aligns 1/4″ over from the edge.

Here is a clarified picture showing the 1/4″ seam lines and how the background should line up with the side triangles.

And here is a back view with the seamlines marked.

Sew along the diagonal line using a 1/4″ seam allowance, you can begin sewing at the top or the bottom. Press back when finished to make sure the side triangle completely covers the 4 1/2″ square on that side. If it covers the corner at the widest part, you have sewn it correctly.

Trim the center triangle extra off as shown below and press open again.

Now, repeat with the other side using a mirror imaged side triangle. Notice the tips at the top line up on top of each other.

Here is another picture showing how to line up the second side triangle, note the pin at the top of the triangle is placed through the 1/4″ seam and pinned directly into the seam, 1/4″ down from the top edge.

After sewing the second side, press back and check to make sure that side of the square corners are covered. If they are, trim off the excess and press open again.

Now you need to trim your creation to 4 ½” x 4 ½”.

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King Size Quilt: Required 64 Triangle in a Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

BC:  Cut 8 strips 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 64 – 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares.

MC:  Cut 6 strips 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 64- 4 ½” x 3 3/8″ rectangles.

Queen Size Quilt: Required 48 Triangle in a Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

BC:  Cut 6 strips 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 48- 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares.

MC:  Cut 5 strips 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 48- 4 ½” x 3 3/8″ rectangles.

Double Size Quilt: Required 36 Triangle in a Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

BC:  Cut 5 strips 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 36- 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares.

MC:  Cut 4 strips 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 36- 4 ½” x 3 3/8″ rectangles.

Twin Size Quilt: Required 24 Triangle in a Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

BC:  Cut 3 strips 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 24- 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares.

MC:  Cut 3 strips 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 24- 4 ½” x 3 3/8″ rectangles.

Lap Size Quilt: Required 16 Triangle in a Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

BC:  Cut 2 strips 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 16- 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares.

MC:  Cut 2 strips 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 16- 4 ½” x 3 3/8″ rectangles.

Table Topper or Pillow Front Size : Required 4 Triangle in a Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

BC:  Cut 1 strip 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 4- 4 ½” x 4 ½” squares.

MC:  Cut 1 strip 4 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 4- 4 ½” x 3 3/8″ rectangles.

Download

block-unit-f6-triangle-in-a-square-updated

Aunt Daisy’s Quilt Along Block Unit E – June

Block Unit E – Square in a Square block unit

This month we will make the Square in a Square block unit.  I have found the most success by cutting the center block the exact size required and cutting the outside triangles larger, then sewing and trimming down to a 4 ½” square unit.  There are many rulers available for making a square in a square, but I prefer this simple method. 

For each Square in a Square Block Unit E you will need the following:

MC:  Cut 1:  3 3/8” x 3 3/8” square of main color.

Background:  Cut 2:  3 ½” x 3 ½” of background color – sub cut each background square on the diagonal once from corner to corner, you will get two triangles from each 3 ½” square.

Directions:  Fold square in half and pinch to get the center of each of the four sides.

Now fold each of the four triangles by folding the longest side in half and pinch to get the center.  Be careful NOT to pull or stretch this side as it is on the bias and will stretch out easily.

Place a background triangle, long side of triangle, on opposite sides of the square, matching up the pinched center marks. 

Sew

Press toward the background color.  Please note you will have extra fabric sticking out beyond the square, do not trim yet!

Sew the other two background triangles to the other sides of the square making sure you line up the pinched center marks of the square and triangles.

Press toward the background color. 

Using a 4 ½” square ruler, center the ruler on the MC center square so you have the points of the MC just at the ¼” seamline.  Please note that the points are also lined up on the 2 ¼” line and the tip of the point is at the ¼” line. Trim. If using a ruler larger than 4 1/2″ square you will trim two adjacent sides first then turn ruler, line up and trim the other two sides using the same line-up tips above.

Your trimmed block should measure 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″.

REQUIRED NUMBER OF BLOCK UNITS FOR EACH SIZE QUILT:

King Size Quilt:  REQUIRED:  80 Square in a Square block units.

MC:  Cut 8 strips 3 3/8” x WOF – sub cut into 80: 3 3/8” x 3 3/8” squares.

Background:  Cut 15 strips 3 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 160: 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares – then cut all background squares on the diagonal (you will get 320 triangles.)

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Queen Size Quilt:  REQUIRED:  60 Square in a Square block units.

MC:  Cut 6 strips 3 3/8” x WOF – sub cut into 60:  3 3/8” x 3 3/8” squares.

Background:  Cut 11 strips 3 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 120: 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares – then cut all background squares on the diagonal (you will get 240 triangles.)

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Double Size Quilt:  REQUIRED:  45 Square in a Square block units.

MC:  Cut 5 strips 3 3/8” x WOF – sub cut into 45:  3 3/8” x 3 3/8” squares.

Background:  Cut 9 strips 3 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 90: 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares – then cut all background squares on the diagonal (you will get 180 triangles.)

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Twin Size Quilt:  REQUIRED:  30 Square in a Square block units.

MC:  Cut 3 strips 3 3/8” x WOF – sub cut into 30:  3 3/8” x 3 3/8” squares.

Background:  Cut 6 strips 3 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 60: 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares – then cut all background squares on the diagonal (you will get 120 triangles.)

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Lap Size Quilt:  REQUIRED:  20 Square in a Square block units.

MC:  Cut 2 strips 3 3/8” x WOF – sub cut into 20:  3 3/8” x 3 3/8” squares.

Background:  Cut 4 strips 3 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 40: 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares – then cut all background squares on the diagonal (you will get 80 triangles.)

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Pillow Front or Table Topper:  REQUIRED:  5 Square in a Square block units.

MC:  Cut 1 strips 3 3/8” x 18” – sub cut into 5:  3 3/8” x 3 3/8” squares.

Background:  Cut 1 strips 3 ½” x WOF – sub cut into 10: 3 ½” x 3 ½” squares – then cut all background squares on the diagonal (you will get 20 triangles.)

block-unit-e5-sq-in-a-sqDownload

Aunt Daisy’s Quilt Along Block D – May

Aunt Daisy’s Quilt

Block Unit D – Four Square block unit 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished (4” Finished)

Block D is the easiest unit to make!  There are two ways to make this block.  The first method is to cut your strips wider than necessary (2 3/4″ or 3″ wide rather than the 2 1/2″ wide), sew together strips and cut across the two colors at 2 3/4″ or 3″ wide, then sew two of these units together and trim down to the 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished size.  Follow regular sewing directions but realize your sub cuts will be wider than the 2 1/2″.

But, if you set your machine for the slightly scant ¼” seam line you won’t need to trim your blocks.  There are a few ways to accomplish the ¼” or SCANT ¼” seam line.  Here is one method:

The first step is to place a ruler under your foot, lower the pressure foot and gently hand glide the needle down to just above the ruler to ensure the needle is exactly on the ¼” line for the quarter inch OR just to the right side of the ¼” line for the scant quarter inch seam.  The scant quarter inch seam allows extra needed when you press open the seams.  Using this method, you can decide if the edge of your quilting foot or the lines on your machine are accurate and you would be able to follow those lines.

If you believe you need an edge there are seam guides that screw into the bed of your machine so you can place one on the bed, insert the screw and then gently slide the seam guide against the ruler and tighten the screw but make sure when you tighten the screw that it doesn’t twist and stays true to the vertical line of the ruler. 

Another method, and this is one I use with new quilters, is to place a used gift card next to the ruler and tape it down, making sure the tape is flush with the edge of the card.  This method gives you a ridge just like the seam guides.  I use Washi tape, painters tape or masking tape as these don’t leave a residue on my machine when I remove the tape.

And another method is to use the seam tape as shown below.  It’s a little harder to get down perfectly aligned but I really like using this tape, especially when I’m making a quilt that has half square or quarter square triangles requiring diagonal sewing and straight edge sewing. To set this tape I use the ruler but slide it back to the front edge of the dog feed opening. Then I line up the tip of the tape with the ruler and then remove the ruler and line it up using lines on my machine bed to make sure I lay the tape down straight.

And finally, there are several styles of seam marking templates that are taped to the bed of the machine.  One, by Quilt in a Day, is my favorite because it’s thin and easy to use.  The second one I own is by Lori Holt and is shaped like a flower; the template is durable but also thicker.

The block is constructed by cutting strips 2 ½” x WOF.  You will need equal numbers of neutral BC color strips and MC strips.  Place a BC and MC strip together with right sides together and sew along the long edge.

 Press to the dark side.

Then, sub cut into 2 ½” wide x 4 ½” tall units. 

Take two units, flip one so you have MC right sides together against BC.

Nest the seams so they are snug against each other (this is where the dark fabrics from each are snug against each other.  Sew along one side.

Press to one side.  Flip over and check your unit to make sure it doesn’t need to be trimmed.  Mine looks short on the bottom right corner but my ruler slipped when I took the picture so it’s okay to use! 

Your unit should measure 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished.

NOW, if you choose to make your blocks using the “oversized and trimmed down” method, it is made using the same steps, but you will cut your strips wider, say 2 3/4″ or 3″ wide. When you sub cut into the 2 1/2″ wide x 4 1/2″ tall, you will not cut your units 2 1/2″ wide but at least 2 3/4″ wide by the height. This last step is where you would center your block, making sure the center seams are on the 2 ¼” line and trim down to 4 1/2” by 4 1/2″.

For one Block Unit D you will need the following (for one block unit only, these are good directions for a completely scrappy quilt):

MC (main color):  Cut 2: 2 ½” x 2 ½” squares.

BC (background color):  Cut 2: 2 ½” x 2 ½” squares.

Directions:  Sew one MC square to a BC square.  Press to the dark side.  Repeat with the remaining two squares.  Sew these two units together matching MC to BC color.  Press.  Block should be 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished.

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King Size Quilt: Required 128 Four Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished.  Sew 16 MC strips to 16 Background strips.  Press to the dark side and sub cut into 256- 2 ½” x 4 ½” units.  Sew 2 sub units together for a Four Square unit.  Press.

MC:  Cut 16 strips 2 ½” x WOF 

BC:  Cut 16 strips 2 ½” x WOF

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Queen Size Quilt: Required 96 Four Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished.  Sew 12 MC to 12 Background strips.  Press to dark side and sub cut into 192- 2 ½” x 4 ½” units.  Sew 2 sub units together for a Four Square unit.  Press.

MC:  Cut 12 strips 2 ½” x WOF 

BC:  Cut 12 strips 2 ½” x WOF

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Double Size Quilt: Required 72 Four Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished.  Sew 9 MC to 9 Background strips.  Press to dark side and sub cut into 144- 2 ½” x 4 ½” units.  Sew 2 sub units together for a Four Square unit.  Press.

MC:  Cut 9 strips 2 ½” x WOF 

BC:  Cut 9 strips 2 ½” x WOF

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Twin Size Quilt: Required 48 Four Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished.  Sew 6 MC to 6 Background strips.  Press to dark side and sub cut into 96- 2 ½” x 4 ½” units.  Sew 2 sub units together for a Four Square unit.  Press.

MC:  Cut 6 strips 2 ½” x WOF 

BC:  Cut 6 strips 2 ½” x WOF

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Lap Size Quilt: Required 32 Four Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished.  Sew 4 MC to 4 Background strips.  Press to dark side and sub cut into 64- 2 ½” x 4 ½” units.  Sew 2 sub units together for a Four Square unit.  Press.

MC:  Cut 4 strips 2 ½” x WOF 

BC:  Cut 4 strips 2 ½” x WOF

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Table Topper/Pillow Front Size : Required 8 Four Square block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished.  Sew 8 MC to 8 Background strips.  Press to dark side and sub cut into 16- 2 ½” x 4 ½” units.  Sew 2 sub units together for a Four Square unit.  Press.

MC:  Cut 1 strip 2 ½” x WOF 

BC:  Cut 1 strip 2 ½” x WOF

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Aunt Daisy’s Quilt Along Block Unit C

Aunt Daisy’s Quilt

Block Unit C – Half Square Triangle block unit 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished.

For every TWO Block Units of C you will need the following:

MC:  Cut 1: 5 ½” x 5 ½” square.

Background:  Cut 1: 5 ½” x 5 ½” square.

Directions:  Half Square Triangle block units are made by placing two oversized squares, one Main Color (MC) and one Background Color (BC) together.

Draw a diagonal line from one corner to the opposite corner. 

Sew ¼” away on each side of the drawn line. 

Showing sewing on both sides of the drawn line.

Cut on the drawn line.

You now have two Half Square Triangle units. 

Press to the dark side. 

Let’s trim now for an accurate 4 ½” x 4 ½” square!  Use your ruler to trim each to 4 ½” x 4 ½” making sure the seam line is exactly corner to corner on the diagonal. 

Your unit should measure 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished. 

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King Size Quilt: Required 128 Half Square Triangle block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished. 

MC:  Cut 10 strips 5 ½” x WOF – Sub cut into 64- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

Background:  Cut 10 strips 5 ½” x WOF – Sub cut into 64- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

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Queen Size Quilt: Required 96 Half Square Triangle block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished. 

MC:  Cut 7 strips 5 ½” x WOF – Sub cut into 48- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

Background:  Cut 7 strips 5 ½” x WOF – Sub cut into 48- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

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Double Size Quilt: Required 72 Half Square Triangle block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished. 

MC:  Cut 6 strips 5 ½” x WOF – Sub cut into 36- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

Background:  Cut 6 strips 5 ½” x WOF – Sub cut into 36- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

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Twin Size Quilt: Required 48 Half Square Triangle block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished.

MC:  Cut 4 strips 5 ½” x WOF – Sub cut into 24- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

Background:  Cut 4 strips 5 ½” x WOF – Sub cut into 24- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

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Lap Size Quilt: Required 32 Half Square Triangle block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished. 

MC:  Cut 3 strips 5 ½” x WOF – Sub cut into 16- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

Background:  Cut 3 strips 5 ½” x WOF – Sub cut into 16- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

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Table Topper/Pillow Front Size : Required 8 Half Square Triangle block units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished. 

MC:  Cut 4- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

Background:  Cut 4- 5 ½” x 5 ½” squares.

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Block Unit B: Quarter Square Triangle Units

We are now making the second block unit, a Quarter Square Triangle unit. There is only one method for making this unit but two different ways to trim depending on the type of ruler you choose to use for trimming. We begin with two oversized square, one of the main color and one of the background color and these two squares will result in two individual units that we will trim down to 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ unfinished.

Here is the PDF as it’s easier to post than posting individually with pictures on this blog. Use the bar on the side of the PDF below to scroll through the directions or click on the link below this to download the PDF.

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Block Unit A: The Flying Geese Block Units

The Aunt Daisy’s Quilt is made with block units and each month I will release a new block unit with instructions. The first block unit is Block Unit A. We will be making this quilt sewing ALL of the units required for the whole quilt and the number of units you make will depend on the finished quilt size you have chosen. Please refer to the previous post or the Facebook Page: Aunt Daisy’s Quilt Along for the Sizes and Yardage charts. Please use the Facebook Page to ask questions and post pictures of your progress. Please remember quilters that we are all in different stages of learning from, “This is my very first quilt.” to “I’ve been quilting for decades.” But I’m a firm believer that there is no perfect, right or wrong way to make a quilt, it’s whatever works for you and makes the most sense to you as long as you get the accurate size required. Let’s be kind and helpful with each other!

So, I’ve probably chosen the hardest unit to kick off this quilt along. Why? I’ve chosen the blocks in order from using the largest pieces of material to the smallest and if you choose to use Method 1, these blocks begin with the largest fabric squares! In this Block Unit A, I’ve actually made directions for five different methods. There are so very many ways to make the Flying Geese Blocks, everything from Paper Piecing to specialty rulers from dozens of companies. If you have a ruler that works for you, use it. If you have a square up ruler that works great, use it. In the past, I have used the flying geese rulers from different companies, from European quilting magazines, from Quilt in a Day (my favorite) and the Accuquilt dies and they all work well and accurately. I’m going to demonstrate how to make the Flying Geese units without specialty rulers so that everyone may join in on the fun without the expense of specialty rulers. Please feel free to experiment and try some of the different methods and find the one that gives you the best results or use your own method/rulers.

***PLEASE NOTE: Method 1 will always give you all of the cutting directions. For the alternative methods I have not made the cutting charts, it’s mainly showing you how to make the blocks. I’ll give the directions for one block but you will need to cut the number required. The cutting charts TELL YOU HOW MANY BLOCKS YOU NEED FOR EACH SIZE, but the cutting charts listing the size of strips and number of strips are ONLY for Method 1. I’ll give you tips on what you need to cut but I have not had time to create cutting charts for all of the methods listed below.

Method 1 is my favorite because I get the most accurate blocks, but it does take more time trimming the blocks down to the appropriate size. Pro: Accurate blocks. Con: More time trimming blocks and a little waste of fabric.

Method 2 is a good way to make blocks and is quick, it is the Folded Corners Method. Pro: Pretty accurate blocks without all of the trimming. Con: There is wasted fabrics with the folded corner method so if I chose this method, I’d sew another seam and make small half square triangles (HST) with the waste to use in another project.

Method 3 is another favorite method of mine, it is the Traditional Method. Pro: No waste, quick to sew. Con: You must be careful to not pull on the fabric because you will be sewing on the bias.

Method 4 is probably one of the most popular methods used by quilters today; my friend Debbie uses this method; she loves it and gets extremely accurate blocks; I don’t use this method because I always seem to get distorted blocks. Pro: No waste and it’s a quick method that produces 4 geese blocks at once. Con: Accuracy is required to get the perfect size.

Method 5 is probably the easiest but my least favorite. This method uses half square triangles (HST). I simply do not like the seam up the middle of the center triangle. I make these starting with oversized squares and trim down to the correct size for accuracy. Pro: Easy and accurate. Con: Trimming and a center seam on the flying geese that adds extra bulk.

METHOD 1: Please note: First I will show you how to make one single block unit. The directions for cutting out all of units required for your quilt size are listed in the chart below. I recommend that before you cut out the blocks for an entire project that you cut enough for one block unit, sew it together and see if you are getting an accurate block and if you like the method.

Block Unit A – Flying Geese block unit 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished. (4″ x 4″ Finished size)

BC=Background color – MC=Main color

For every two Flying Geese Blocks – Unit A – Method 1 you will need the following:

MC:  Cut 1:  5 ¾” x 5 ¾” square

BC:  Cut 1:  7” x 7” square

Directions:  Draw a diagonal line on the wrong side of the MC square.  Center this square on the background square with right sides together. 

Sew ¼” away from the drawn line on each side. 

Cut on the Drawn line and press toward background. 

Spin one of the squares around and layer these back on top of each other with rights sides together.  It will look strange as the center lines won’t match; you are matching the unsewn corners as well as possible. 

Now draw a line from the corner that doesn’t have a seam to the opposite corner as shown below. 

Again, stitch ¼” away from the drawn line on each side.  Cut on drawn line. Press toward one side.   

It will look like the picture below. One section of the seam is pressed toward the MC, after you trim you will be able to press this small seam toward the BC.

You will end up with two shapes like picture above.

Time to trim.  I like to use a 4 ½” square ruler with the diagonal lines marked on it for this part but you can use any ruler. I start at the point of the MC triangle, placing the point of the triangle on the ¼” line.  Trim the top. 

If it helps you can put tape or post it notes on the lines you need to line up as in the picture below. I like to put the post it note paper just beyond the line I need to use so I can still see the line.

Next I trim the bottom to 2 ½” parallel to the top you’ve already trimmed. 

Then I trim the sides to 4 ½” wide, centering the point on the 2 ¼” mark.  You should end up with two units that are 2 ½” x 4 ½”. 

Sew the two units together to make the double flying geese unit.  

Make sure you sew just to the right of the intersecting stitch lines so you don’t lose your points on the tip of the flying geese.

Repeat with the second set.  You will have two complete flying geese units.

CUTTING DIRECTIONS:

King Size Quilt: Required 128 double flying geese units: 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

MC:  Cut 10 strips 5 ¾”  x WOF – sub cut into 64: 5 ¾” x 5 ¾” squares.

BC:  Cut 13 strips 7” x WOF – sub cut into 64: 7” x 7” squares.

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Queen Size Quilt:  Required 96 double flying geese units:  4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

MC:  Cut 7 strips 5 ¾” x WOF – sub cut into 48:  5 ¾” x 5 ¾” squares.

BC:  Cut 10 strips 7” x WOF – sub cut into 48: 7” x 7” squares

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Double Size Quilt: Required 72 double flying geese units:  4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

MC:  Cut 6 strips 5 ¾” x WOF – sub cut into 36:  5 ¾” x 5 ¾” squares.

BC:  Cut 6 strips 7” x WOF – sub cut into 36: 7” x 7” squares

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Twin Size Quilt: Required 48 double flying geese units:  4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

MC:  Cut 4 strips 5 ¾” x WOF – sub cut into 24:  5 ¾” x 5 ¾” squares.

BC:  Cut 4 strips 7” x WOF – sub cut into 24: 7” x 7” squares

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Lap Size Quilt: Required 32 double flying geese units:  4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

MC:  Cut 4 strips 5 ¾” x WOF – sub cut into 16:  5 ¾” x 5 ¾” squares.

BC:  Cut 3 strips 7” x WOF – sub cut into 16: 7” x 7” squares

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Pillow Front or Table Topper:  Required 8 double flying geese units:  4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished

MC:  Cut 1 strips 5 ¾”  x WOF – sub cut into 4:  5 ¾” x 5 ¾” squares.

BC:  Cut 1 strips 7” x WOF – sub cut into 4: 7” x 7” squares

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Method 2 – Block Unit A, Fold-over method. 4 ½” x 4 ½” unfinished. (4″ x 4″ Finished size)

This method uses rectangles and blocks.

For each block:

MC: Cut 2: 4 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ rectangles.

BC: Cut 4: 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares.

Draw a diagonal line on each BC square as shown above.

Lay one white square on the side of one rectangle and sew on the drawn line.

Next trim 1/4″ away from the drawn line and press toward the BC.

Repeat with the second square.

Trim and press toward BC.

Sew two flying geese units together, make sure you sew just to the right of the intersecting seams, so you don’t lose your points.

Press up toward the top MC geese.

My tip for cutting instructions: Refer to Method 1 chart for the NUMBER of block units you will need for your size.

MC: cut 4 1/2″ wide strips the width of the fabric and sub cut into the number of 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ rectangles times 2. You need two rectangles for each unit.

BC: Cut strips 2 1/2″ wide the width of the fabric and sub cut into 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ squares. You will need four of these blocks for each unit.

Method 3: The Traditional Method for Flying Geese. Unfinished size 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ (4″ x 4″ finished).

This method uses the pieces cut ready to sew together. It is important when sewing the units with this method that you do not tug or pull on the fabric as you sew because you will be sewing on the diagonal or bias grain of fabric.

To begin this method. From MC cut one square 5 1/4″ x 5 1/4″. Then cut on the diagonal in both directions as shown below.

From BC: Cut 4 squares 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″. Cut each one on the diagonal.

Lay out as pictured below:

Sew one BC triangle to the MC triangle. Do not pull the seams, they stretch easily when sewing on the bias.

Press toward the BC.

Repeat with the opposite BC triangles.

Press toward the BC.

Trim if needed, each small unit should measure 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″.

Sew two of the units together, make sure you sew just to the right of the intersecting seams, so you don’t lose your tip.

Press toward the MC triangle. Trim dog ears if you want.

Cutting tips for this method:

MC: Cut strips 5 1/4″ wide by the width of the fabric, then sub cut into 5 1/4″ x 5 1/4″ squares. Refer to the Method 1 Cutting Chart to determine how many squares you will need.

BC: Cut strips 2 7/8″ wide the width of the fabric, then subcut into 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ squares.

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Method 4: Four at a Time Flying Geese. 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ unfinished (4″ x 4″ finished)

This is a very popular method with quilters today. It might seem odd the way the blocks look as you’re sewing it but if you follow the pictures/steps it’s quite easy. Use a scan 1/4″ seam when sewing the blocks.

To begin:

MC: Cut 1 square 5 1/4″ x 5 1/4″

BC: Cut 2 squares 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″

Draw a line on two of the BC squares and place them on opposite corners of the MC square with the marked line and tips of the BC squares overlapping as shown in the picture below.

Sew 1/4″ over from the drawn line on both sides of the line.

Cut on the drawn line.

Press seams toward the BC.

Now draw a line on the remaining two BC squares and place them on the previous sewn sections as shown in the picture below.

Sew 1/4″ away from the drawn line on both sides of the line.

Cut on the drawn line.

Press seams toward BC.

Sew two units together making sure to sew to the right of the intersection of stitching so you don’t lose your points.

Press seam toward the MC triangle.

You should have a unit that measures 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″.

For cutting instructions: Refer to the chart for the number of blocks you will need.

MC: Cut strips 5 1/4″ wide x width of fabric. Sub cut into 5 1/4″ x 5 1/4″ squares.

BC: Cut strips 2 7/8″ wide x width of fabric. Sub cut into 2 7/8″ x 2 7/8″ squares.

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Method 5: Half Square Triangles method for Flying Geese. 4 1/2″ x 4 1/2″ unfinished (4″ x 4″ finished)

With this method you will be making oversized half square triangles (HST) and then trimming them down to 2 1/2″ x 2 1/2″ before sewing together to make the geese unit.

To begin:

MC: cut two – 3 1/4″ x 3 1/4″ squares.

BC: cut two – 3 1/4″ x 3 1/4″ squares.

Lay one BC and one MC together with right sides together. Draw a diagonal line on the back of the BC. Sew 1/4″ on each side of the drawn line. Cut on the drawn line.

Press seam toward the BC.

Sew two HST together. Press toward one side OR press seam open. Trim to 2 1/2″ x 4 1/2″.

Sew two geese together, making sure to sew to the right of the intersecting seams so you don’t lose your tips. Press the seam up toward the MC.

For cutting directions, refer to the Method 1 cutting chart for the number of units you will need BUT you will cut your MC and BC strips 3 1/4″ wide the full width of the fabric. Sub cut into 3 1/4″ x 3 1/4″ squares.

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